Airfix 1/72 North American F-86F/E(M) Sabre

 

I've always loved the Sabre and had the opportunity to work on them during my Air Force training days as a technician, as well as see an airworthy example fly at various air shows for several years. 

Having picked up this kit secondhand at a club Swap & Sell, I initially intended to build it out of the box. However, as anyone who knows me, I couldn't resist seeing if there were any after market bits available and ended up purchasing an Eduard etch set (ED SS397), Eduard canopy masks (ED CX295), Reskit wheels (RS72-0078), Pavla ejection seat and a Flightdecs decal sheet (FLD72-04), just to improve things a little.

Overall, the kit was an absolute joy to build, only requiring some gaps to be filled on the lower wing to fuselage join and around the speed brake housing, as it seemed that the latter were designed to be displayed in the open position, rather than closed. With everything cleaned up and in place, the model was then masked and primed with SMS Camo Black (AUSCAM-FS37038), followed by an application of AK Extreme Metal Aluminium (AK479) on the underside and drop tanks. With the underside masked, the upper surface colours were then applied using SMS PL72 Insignia White (FS17875), SMS PL174 Blue Angels Blue (FS15050), SMS PL77 Forest Green (FS34079) and SMS PL56 Dark Sea Grey (RAL7031).

Painting completed, the model was then given an overall coat of Mr Hobby Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Gloss and once dry the decals were applied, followed by a dark grey panel line wash. The model was then given a final coat of Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Semi-Gloss to seal everything in. It was then just a matter of fitting the undercarriage and doors, the drop tanks and the intake and exhaust covers and with that the model was done. This really was an enjoyable project and a kit that I would highly recommend.    

 

Tamiya 1/48 Dornier Do335A Pfeil

 

Although I've built quite a few Tamiya kits, this was definitely one of the easiest and most satisfying builds I have done to date. However, like any kit that I build I did add a number of after market additions to it, consisting of an Aires cockpit set (AIRE4101), Master Models pitot tube and gun barrels (MR48-146), Quickboost exhausts (QB49020), Reskit wheels (RS48-0331), Eduard canopy masks (EDEX101) and a set of Montex masks (MM48082), with the latter only used for the painting of the main markings.

The build of the kit was very straight forward, presented no major challenges, and everything cleaned up without the need for any filler. Amazing! As a consequence, I soon had the model masked up, primed and ready for a coat of colour. For this I used SMS paints throughout, consisting of RLM02 Grau (PL179), RLM65 Hellblua (PL184), RLM70 Schwartgrun (PL185), RLM81 Braunviolett (PL192) and RLM82 Lichtgrun (Pl193). However, after spraying the underside with the Hellblua, the colour looked too dark with a greenish tinge to it, which I wasn't happy with. As a solution, I decided to overspray each individual panel with a very dilute mix of Gunze RLM65 Hellblua (H67), leaving the edges slightly darker, which ended up looking a lot better, and I was much happier with.

When it came to spraying the topside colours, I wasn't happy with the RLM81 Braunviolett colour, as it looked much too dark compared to my references. As a consequence, I ended up mixing it with some other colours until I was happy with the final shade, which does look a lot better. With the painting completed, I then applied the main markings using the Montex masks, which was then followed with an overall coat of Gunze, Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss. The few kit decals that I used were then applied, followed by a panel line wash and lastly an overall coat of Gunze, Mr Super Clear UV Cut Flat. It was then just a matter of removing the canopy masks, applying a coat of Future to them and then carrying out the final assembly of parts, and it was job done.

I decided not to do any weathering to this model, as the real aircraft never saw any active service during World War 2 and only conducted less than a dozen evaluation flights before it was captured by the American's.   

 

Antique Aeroplane Association of Australia Fly-in (Corowa)

Eduard (Limited Edition) 1/72 Sikorski JRS-1

Having originally been issued by Sword and then Special Hobby, it's an aircraft I've always loved and have wanted to build as a kit for a long time, so when Eduard released their Limited Edition version with their resin and etch extras, I didn't hesitate to buy one.

However, despite its attractive box art and beautifully printed instructions, plus the added extras, the kit's original lineage and age has not changed, which means it is not a kit for a novice modeller as it does require a lot of work.

As per the instructions, I commenced by building the interior and as little of the cabin area is visible through the porthole windows, I elected to remove all of the cabin seat armrests and also to forego the installation of the seatbelts. As for the cockpit area, this was assembled as per the instructions. I then proceeded to install the cabin windows, which required a lot of careful filing and trial fitting to ensure that they fitted flush with the fuselage exterior. With the interior painted and installed, I was then able to assemble the fuselage halves, which again required some careful assembly to ensure that everything was aligned and fitted properly.

With the fuselage done, I then assembled and installed the fin and horizontal stabilisers. However, prior to this, I did drill and install some brass wire into both the fin and horizontal stabilisers, to give them some added strength and to ensure their proper alignment. I then assembled the wing, but failed to realise that the tips have a slight upward sweep, which I did not discover until much later, hence why the wing on my model is perfectly horizontal. Unfortunately, once assembled it is very evident that the trailing edge of the wing is also very thick, and as a consequence it does require a lot of filing and sanding to remedy this. As I'd fitted the pylon to the underside of the wing, when it came to fitting the wing to the fuselage I again chose to drill the bottom of the pylon and add some brass rod to give it some added strength, when attached to the fuselage. After carefully filing and sanding all of the struts, as they are quite fragile and easy to break, their installation was surprisingly easier than I expected, with only a small amount of filler required to tidy up a few gaps.

Assembly of the undercarriage struts, however, proved to be the next challenge and again these were drilled, and had brass wire added to give them more strength. A considerable amount of time was spent on assembling these units, to ensure that they would fit into the wheel bays and also to make sure that they were both properly aligned to ensure the aircrafts correct sit. The final items I assembled were the wing floats, and again I drilled and added brass wire to all of the strut ends to ensure both their proper alignment and for added strength. 

With the kit's assembly now completed, I then hit a major hurdle, this being how to add the bracing wires to both the wing and wing floats? As I didn't like any of the current options on offer, it unfortunately resulted in the model being relegated to my 'shelf of doom', where it languished for the next 6 years. Then one day whilst going through my stash I found an old Otaki biplane kit, which just happened to contain several lengths of spring steel wire for the rigging, which were the perfect scale thickness for my model and would not be susceptible to breakage or deformation. Having found the preferred solution to my rigging problem, I recovered the model from the 'shelf of doom' and this time I was determined to see it through to the finish.

After masking, the model was then sprayed with Tamiya, Fine Surface Primer (L) Gray. The rudder was then sprayed white, and with the appropriate areas masked off, the red bands were then applied. With the rudder masked, the model was then sprayed with Gunze Blue Gray (C367) and Gunze Light Gray (C325). The walkways and anti-glare panel were then masked off and sprayed Gunze Black (H2). The model was then sprayed with an overall coat of Gunze, Mr. Super Clear Gloss. The few decals required were then applied and these were sealed in with another coat of gloss. A panel line wash was then applied, followed by a final coat of Gunze, Mr. Color UV Cut Flat (GX113).

Having taken 7 years to complete and been presented with quite a few challenges along the way, I am more than happy with the final outcome, and the kit was money well spent, although it may not have seemed like it at times.